Measuring heat transfer

I insulated the brewing container with an old bed sheet and on top of that added a layer of aluminium foil, and filled the container with 25 liters of water, and measured the temperature to be at 19,2°C and left the container in a room at around 24,5°C.

After an hour, the temperature had risen to 19,3°C so the peltier will definitely work. Of course I will have to keep the brew at around 15°C but if there was a temperature rise of 0,1°C over an hour with delta between the room and the container of 5,3°C, then delta of 10°C should still be very well within same type of figures. Should be linear function?

Very happy.

Calculating the energy transfer

On this I already did some quick work and calorie is the perfect unit of measure for this. If 25 liters of water rises 0,1°C in temperature it requires 25 liters (kg) times 1000 (to grams) times 0,1 (rise in temperature) times 4,2 joules (a calorie) of energy.

25×1000×0,1×4,2 equals 10 kJ of energy.

And since 1 Joule is one Watt of power for one second, and if peltier is 3% efficient, then 180 Watts of input to the peltier will produce 5,40 Watts of actual usable energy (heat transfer), then it will be 5,4 Joules per second, which in an hour is 19 440 Joules, so the peltier should be about double what is needed.

And since I need delta of 10°C and if it is linear function then it will be about just perfect to keep the brew at 15°C. Not including the heat produced by the yeast, which may be significant. Could probably be calculated by taking the amount of sugars and the end alcohol content and dividing that over time? Could be significant.

3 and a half hour mark

19,8°C and 9 kJ per hour.

Arduino controller lager brewery

I have built control systems based around Arduino before and this time it will be for brewing lager. The reason being that lager requires cold temperatures. And on top of that, all brewing should be controlled, temperature wise.

The method I have chose is based around a 180W peltier element. The image will best describe the system:

Compressor is out of the question because of the space it takes, because of the price of them and because of the noise they make. But peltier system will be small, cheap and silent. Efficiency is the downfall of this system. It will cost a lot of energy to get little usable energy out. I am expecting anywhere between 5-10 Watts. But I am counting on my ability to insulate the system well enough so that the energy transfer into the system will be less (or more precisely, between the two systems).

 

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Change of plan

I think I will have to get full Mongoose exhaust instead, and leave the tune for next summer.

1200 € for the full system with 200 cell sport cat.

That’s a cat-back in the video but I guess turbo-back won’t sound much worse. Very nice continuous clean sound. No peaks or random noises but clean. ST pops and cracks but it is what it is. Deeper and more balanced sound than Milltek and others I would say.

Intercooler and new software for ST225

If all goes well, new larger and much needed intercooler coming soon:

Compare that to the original:

More or less twice the height and apparently thicker core and improved airflow characteristics as well.

Should help cram more air into the engine and help with the timing as well.

Combined with Dreamscience Stratagem iMap. The reason I choose that is because it comes with all the tunes that I will ever need. I can start with Performance and Performance+ and then with more upgrades choose which ever fits the best. Definitely best bang for the buck at around 500 €. Tunes from other tuners are 300-400 € and only come with that one tune and that’s it.

So not owning a rolling road / dyno and hence not able to purchase custom ECU for completely custom tunes; Dreamscience with its 10 or so ready-to-go tunes is the second best, and I use the phrase second best in the highest sense of the phrase possible.

Minor change

Everything stays as said, except the intercooler will be non-painted one. There seem to be quite significant difference between painted-black and pure aluminium (multiple percentage points) plus the aluminium is actually cheaper. So more power and less money spending – best option.

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Small upgrades to ST225

Boot gas springs finally died on me completely. One of them died apparently some time ago since the lift was week, but now they’re both dead.

So decided to upgrade to these:

[Probably] original gas springs, but with added springs to accomplish this:

Minor thing, but will make life that little bit more comfortable. Plus, it makes the car look more Premium. Pair of originals would have been 20-50€ and these were 100€ so quite a good margin, but it’s worth it. It’s definitely worth it.

Clever product because the boot unlocks with keyfob, so these will raise it automatically when you press the button.

EDIT: These are really, really powerful springs. Cannot really be used because they almost tip the boot lid off. Also closing the boot is as difficult as it is to open the boot with no springs at all. So not worth the 100 € unless these somehow magically become not as powerful. One start out of 5.

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Silver Finnish 1 Markka replica 1921

14,4g 925

Quality doesn’t seem that super but the price is pretty good. Should be about 13,70€ for troy once.

This person had 8 of them, so, now he doesn’t.

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Cheapest silver troy ounce ever

As discussed I got this, but not for the 4,10 € I was hoping, but still the other person didn’t go too high and the end price was 6,10 €.

It’s 26 grams so the ounce price is 7,80 €. That’s what it was in 2004. So I am still pretty skeptical if this is really silver and gold plated. Or how did this slip by everyone else.

It is not ferrous but could still be nickel. But to gold plate nickel? When silver is still relatively cheap? It doesn’t sound plausible but of waste of gold.

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New silver coins

Looking to get couple new items.

First one is this coin in Suomi Taiteli (Finland Fought) series, which I already got for 9 € or 13,70 € per Troy ounce. It’s .925 and once I get the whole series it will be that much more valuable.

The Finnish Coat of arms lion with colored flag. These are from Moneta. And unlike the Finnish mint, who have more modern, artistic look in their coins, these are more conservative in their look, if that’s the word.

Another one, also from Moneta that I am waiting to get is this:

There’s very little information out there about this, and the auction is closing today so I have no time to get that information. But it should be .925 silver with 24k gold plating. They say it is large but I have a feeling it is between 5 and 9 grams.

I bid 2,50 € + shipping 2,10 € so 4,60 € for gold plated silver numismatic. That’s a good deal if I get it.

GFB DV+ T9354 ST225 impressions

Quick post about my impressions of this diverter valve. And no, I have no experience of any other diverter valves, nor can I remember how the original felt; when it was still working.

First thing to mention is the sound. It says, no non-sense, only performance; referencing to it not making any type of noise, or perhaps, not having external BOV to make those noises, but nevertheless, it makes a noise.

Not the usual turbo pidgeon noise, at least not for me, but very immense (correct word) tsiuuhh. Just simply tsiuuhh. It could be something along the lines of tiny bit of turbo flutter combined with the air being diverted back to the inlet. But not sure, and don’t quote me on that.

The adjustment was put just hand-tight.

 

Lesson on autodidactism

I have probably talked about this earlier, or at least talked about how I learned electronics design on my own.

But I wanted to revisit the topic. This time in the form of automobile diagnosis.

About three years ago I noticed that my turbo isn’t boosting as it should. So I queried around to get an offer to have it fixed. But the only offers I received were “we can look into it”. And because no one offered me any concrete paths, I knew it would cost a lot of money to have it checked.

So what I ended up doing was I began to seek knowledge what could it be. Of course this was extremely difficult because I had no knowledge even of the words! The words that describe parts and systems. So how do you began? Well I began trying to find the solution for the problem. As in: why turbo isn’t boosting. Literally, Google: “why turbo isn’t boosting.”

That led me somewhere, but couldn’t answer me because I couldn’t understand the role of each of the parts in the system. None of it made any sense to me. I couldn’t use reasoning because I couldn’t understand the parts and the system as a whole.

But slowly, slowly the research went into direction of simply wanting to understand the turbo system. What parts is it made of.

And then, after understanding each part in the system, and comparing that to my vehicle; what it had; what it did not have; I could began to parse together a diagnosis. And that is another important thing: what my vehicle has, and what it does not have. Because not only is “turbo system” an abstract concept of forced induction, but there are variations within.

So in my mind I now have understanding of what happens at each point when the pedal is pressed.

And I was able to reason, that the problem could be the wastegate control solenoid. And I asked mechanics to check it. And it was leaky indeed.

But the problem remained. So I learned there is something called symposer in the system, that may also become leaky. So I bypassed that system. But the problem still remained.

So now I thought it could only be the bypass valve or if not, then it would have to be the turbo itself, which I didn’t believe it would be as it boosted yes, but not the way it was supposed to; so the turbo unit itself did produce forced induction, but only at very high revs (airflow).

I went to a specialist whom agreed to change the component. My usual mechanics wouldn’t touch it. And I understand why: the placement is “tricky”.

The specialist had his doubts because he had never seen that part fail. But after more than 2 hours of fiddling, the car flew down the road exactly like it did some 60 000km ago.

So. It is possible to do diagnosis on your own. Is it smart? In a direct sense of the word perhaps yes but, did it come any cheaper? That is debatable. I ended up changing one unnecessary part. But one of two parts which were faulty was replaced with aftermarket upgrade. And the one part which wasn’t faulty, too, was replaced with aftermarket upgraded replacement.

So in doing the diagnosis myself, I was able to improve the vehicle performance; had it been diagnosed not by me, I would have had to have paid for 1) the diagnosis and 2) the replacement of the parts, while the car would have either been unusable waiting for the parts, or I would have had to pay more, as it would have required more visits to the shop, and, it may have not gotten the upgraded parts.

And now I understand the turbo system. And many more automotive systems. I have learned the ins and outs of my own power system. And I can do more diagnostics. And keep the vehicle in top performing condition.

So yes, autodictatism is perfectly valid method. And can be applied to automotive diagnosis with enough patients.